Wolfe Island! The largest of the 1000 Islands, and located in Lake Ontario, Canada, Wolfe Island is quaint and cute and easily accessible from city hub of Kingston. A trip to this small city involves lots of eating, coffee-drinking, and shopping, a trip to the Penitentiary Museum, Fort Henry, and the waterfront.
But getting on the ferry from Kingston and experiencing the city from the water is a whole other thing, and getting to explore the calm, sweet Wolfe Island is a great bonus adventure to add to a trip in this beautiful area.
It was a really lovely journey across Lake Ontario, giving great views of Fort Henry, the LaSalle Causeway, and the city skyline. You also get a chance to physically zoom in on the wind turbines often visible from downtown Kingston.
The island was a gem – home to Wolfe Island Bakery (have a cinnamon stick!), Wolfe Island Grill, a public library branch, and a beautiful Catholic Church. We only got to explore a small section of the island, really just the main drag from the general store to the church, and in the other direction from the ferry dock to Cycle Wolfe Island bike rentals, and in part this was due to a lack of transportation.
I would recommend renting or bringing a bicycle to expand the area you are able to explore, and I would even consider bringing a car sometime in order to see some of the beaches and sights that are further away from the ferry dock.
The run down:
Departure: Kingston Waterfront, Ontario Street, on the block between the Shell Station and the K-Rock Centre.
Arrival: Wolfe Island Ferry Dock
Travel Time: 20 minutes
Departure times: Every hour, but not ON the hour. Check out the schedule here for departure times from both the mainland, and the island
Restrictions: Only 55 car spots are available, so plan accordingly. Bike racks are available if you want to take your two wheels over. A little over 290 people spots are available per trip. We didn’t have any trouble getting a spot – literally walked right on – but I imagine in the heat of summer this is a popular activity, and it could be rather crowded.
Logistics: Almost none. We briskly walked from the other side of downtown to the terminal in under 15 minutes, and wandered on to the boat. Watch out for traffic on the mainland side, but really it’s surprisingly easy, in comparison to other ferry rides. For those with mobility issues or young children, you might want to arrive early as there seemed to be limited seating on the top deck.
*Definitely wear sunscreen!* We did not do this, and I am still feeling the results. 20 minutes on the water plus the wait for the boat on either side is definitely enough time for a serious burn!
Have you taken the Wolfe Island Ferry, or spent time on the Island? Share your stories with me in the comments! What should I see next time I visit?
Having arrived in Kingston, Ontario in the midst of spring blossoming and blooming season, I took to the streets to seek out the character of this historic city. Home to 19th century limestone buildings, waterfront access to Lake Ontario, and university life at Queen’s University and the Royal Military College, the small-ish city is constantly bustling with market stalls, open windows to cafes and restaurants, and independent shops.
Many tourists book their tickets to St. John’s or Deer Lake or Gander, and then announce that they’ve set aside a week to “see Newfoundland.” Newfoundland, for the record, is huge. Not huge like Paris is a huge city, huge like it will take all day (if you start early) to get from one side to the other and there are actually things to see in the middle so you can’t just ‘do it’ in seven days.
That being said, there are plenty of things to do and see in seven days, and if you divide up the province, they can even be done well. This itinerary will cover the easternmost side of Newfoundland to get a taste for the cosmopolitan city life, as well as the small-town, quaint bits.
Fly into St. John’s International Airport, located about 20 minutes from downtown. If you’re lucky, the pilot will take you the scenic route, coming in over the ocean and the cliffs. Spend at least three nights in the city, if you can, to have enough time to see the sights, particularly if hiking is part of your plans. Take in various outdoor activities, including Signal Hill (from the Battery walk, and via the road) and Quidi Vidi Lake. Watch the sunrise from Cape Spear, the easternmost point in Canada, or coming in the fall to see the leaves at Rennie’s River Trail and Bowering Park.
Have brunch at Yellow Belly Brewery or the Fifth Ticket on Water Street, pick up souvenirs and local goods in the independent shops on Duckworth Street, and take in a show at LSPU Hall or at the Arts and Culture Centre. Dinner at Get Stuffed, Blue on Water, The Fish Exchange, or any of the other many restaurants downtown will leave you satisfied with local flavours and products, many of which are sourced directly from the producers, farmers, and fishermen.
Visit The Rooms museum for Newfoundland history, and the Craft Council on Duckworth for locally, and lovingly, made arts and crafts. Visit one of the many historical churches in downtown St. John’s, and get your picture taken in front of the jellybean-coloured row houses (just head up from Duckworth, away from the harbour, toward Gower Street, King’s Road, or others). And if boats agree with you (they don’t with me) by all means head down to the harbour and take one of the highly thought of tours to see icebergs, whales, and various other oceanic sights. Let me know how it is – I’ll be on land with a coffee (at Coffee Matters, Fixed, or The Rocket!).
Spend a day touring the Avalon Peninsula. From St. John’s, you are minutes from Middle Cove, Outer Cove, and Topsail Beach. Various East Coast Trail starting points dot the peninsula – visit their website for these details.
You’ll want at least two nights in Trinity, to accommodate both day trips and the various activities in town. The main highlight of Trinity is Rising Tide Theatre Festival, a summer festival of Newfoundland classics and historical pieces, featuring a majority of Newfoundland actors. Spend a day at the Festival to take in the Pageant – a roving theatrical production outlining the history of Trinity and the surrounding area – the dinner theatre, and a main stage production in the evening. If you wish to meet the actors, or locals, they can most likely be found at the pub – you’ll find it. Trinity Coffee Company is roasting small batch coffee in a very small town, and you’ll want to pick one up before heading off on the Skerwink Trail, near Port Rexton, an award-winning hike with spectacular views of the ocean, cliffs, wildlife and sea stacks.
Accommodations in and around Trinity are lovely, and limited – so book early, particularly if you’re traveling in August and September. Stay right in Trinity at the Artisan Inn, or at Fisher’s Loft in Port Rexton, just a few minutes down the road from town.
This historical town plays an interesting and important role in Newfoundland’s past, and the Fisherman’s Protective Union. The entire town appears locked in the early 1900’s. Tour the factory building and see the printing press, as well as archived pieces and historical tools and household items in the museum. The surrounding area is picturesque and worth visiting once you have explored the town itself.
One of the highlights of Newfoundland is wildlife. If you didn’t get a chance to see any puffins on your boat tour in St. John’s or Trinity, don’t miss a stop at Elliston. Bring your own binoculars, or, once you’ve parked your car on the side of the road, borrow a pair once you get there. You will be able to see the puffins – birds smaller than you might imagine – on the adjacent rock. Bring a blanket, or sit in the grass and enjoy the view. Stay all day if you wish – it’s not remotely corporate, and no one will ask you to leave.
Bonavista is day-tripping distance from Trinity, or another spot worth spending a night, depending on your schedule. First on the agenda is a tour of the Matthew, a replica of John Cabot’s ship, appropriately located at his first landing place. From Cape Bonavista Lighthouse Provincial Historic Site, you may be able to spot an iceberg, and you’ll get a taste of Newfoundland history in the quaint downtown.
Take in the cliffs, the fishing boats, and the rugged coastline, before heading twenty minutes down the coast in the direction of Newman’s Cove to Bonavista Social Club at Amherst’s Cove for lunch (open during the summer, only). The self-sufficient restaurant produces and grows their own products for breads, soups, salads, and pizzas.
If you manage to cover this segment of Newfoundland in a week, you’ll have been very successful (and potentially overwhelmed). But, if you still want more, carry on west to Gander, Fogo Island, Twilingate, and Terra Nova National Park. I would recommend taking as much time as you possibly can free up to see as much of the province as possible. Nothing you see will be remotely close to mediocre, and may even make you question your eyesight. Seeing that many cool things in a week can have that effect.
Vieux-Montréal, or Old Montreal, is one of the major highlights of a visit to Montreal, Quebec. Home to Notre-Dame Basilica, the old port, cobblestone streets, and a genuine European flair, travellers can spend an entire weekend in this urban district, one of the oldest in North America.
In summer, the port comes alive with a variety of festivals, Cirque du Soleil performances, zip line rigging, and buskers. But for those who want to forgo the crowds and hype, the cobbled, restaurant-lined alleys are entertaining in themselves, with shopping and eating and coffee-drinking galore.
Olive et Gourmando – This hipster cafe and eatery serves up fresh sandwiches, breads and pastries, and a delicious brunch. Thanks to some good publicity in the blogosphere, it is often very busy, and brunch-goers can expect to wait in the entry, or spill out onto Rue Saint Paul, before getting a cozy table beside other Francophone and Anglophone diners.
Marché de la Villette – Across the road from Olive et Gourmando, Marche de la Villette offers modern French cuisine, deli meats, and fresh cheese selections in an traditional, cabin-like setting. Stepping in is like entering the perfect Quebecois cabin, with hard wood tables, low beams, and large, wholesome dishes. I highly recommend anything that comes in a skillet, hot from the oven, with a fried egg still cooking on top.
Cantinho de Lisboa Épicerie– For a quick bite of breakfast or a light lunch, try this Portugese-inspired market and cafe. Soup, salad, and full breakfasts are available in house, along with coffee, breads, and pastries. To go, pick up condiments and treats from Portugal, as well as those made in-house.
Lunch à Porter – Brown bag lunches will never be the same. Everything is Lunch a Porter is screaming to come home with me every time I stop in. From Bento boxes to water bottles and thermoses, lunching at your desk has never looked so cute.
Espace Pepin Home – The most chic and Quebecois-feeling shop I’ve ever been in for homewares, dishes, furnishings, and sweet things for the kitchen that I certainly don’t need but end up dreaming about for months following a visit. Stop in for elevensies to have a cup of vegetarian soup so you can imagine the cafe space at the back of the shop really is your kitchen.
Nüspace – I found this gem on my last trip to Montreal, and happened to be in while a group of very young children were entranced by a collection of vintage toys, a highlight of this spot. Also to be found: mix and match chairs, a room of rugs, housewarming gifts for the goof in your group, and the funkiest collection of accessories to brighten up your blank slate. Find them on Instagram (@nuspacemobilier) for inspiration, and to begin your wish-list.
Librairie Bertrand – One of my favourite independent bookstores in Montreal, the staff here say very little without prompting, allowing for solitary browsing through the huge stacks of both French and English selections. In March, Irish literary options were prominently displayed, as were recent award-winning French novels and poetry collections. Pick up a combined French-English translation of a classic to improve your language skills – one page, two languages, and no need for a dictionary!
Délices Érable & Cie – The Canadian maple syrup chain is expanding rapidly, and now has four stores in the province of Quebec (including this one in Old Montreal) and one in Vancouver. Stop in for gift sets of pure Canadian maple syrup (I brought one home with syrup, maple sugar, and maple butter – YUM) or have a coffee and maple dessert in the fresh and modern cafe. We ran in to escape a brief rainstorm, and were thrilled to find ourselves surrounded by maple everything. Try whatever is being sampled at the front of the store- it’s all delicious.
Flyjin Café – This hole in the wall espresso bar on Rue Saint-Pierre could be missed easily, but should be a destination stop for an afternoon caffeine hit. Serving high-test espresso (with beans from Anchored Coffee of Dartmouth, Nova Scotia!) and freshly juiced oranges,
Someone commented to me on social media this week that they had been told there was absolutely nothing to see in Ottawa, and it was best on a trip to Canada to skip over our nation’s capital because it’s a big bore. I was, naturally, appalled (though simultaneously amused at the gross generalizations people can make about cities they’ve never seen). Ottawa is chock-full of wholesome, patriotic activities for even the most over-educated Canadian history student to enjoy. And for the common folk like me, there are still things to do! A major shock, I’m sure. So, for all you international budget travellers who have read your Lonely Planet guide and learned that CANADA, of all places, is the top tourist destination of 2017, I am here to offer the surprising information that a visit to Ottawa is not a waste of time, can in fact be a cheap addition to your travels, and both fun and interesting! (Don’t fall off your chair).
One of the major attractions in Ottawa is, of course, Canada’s Parliament, home to the House of Commons, the Senate, and Canada’s government, where laws are made and gargoyles roam free. Centre Block, the most noticeable and symmetrical building on Parliament Hill, houses the Peace Tower, the tall, flag-bearing, clock-wearing structure marking time for the entire country. The Peace Tower is open to the public, and is a great place to start a tour of Ottawa, as you can orient yourself in the city with the picturesque view.
Admission to the Peace Tower is FREE (as is access to all Parliament Buildings), however, you must obtain a ticket before accessing the Peace Tower.
In order to acquire your ticket, head directly across the street from Parliament to 90 Wellington Street, where a smiling Canada Parks student will equip you with a same day ticket, allowing you self-guided access to the Peace Tower, as well as the Memorial Chamber. Tickets are offered on a first-come, first-served basis.
In some cases, a time stamp will appear on your ticket. While it is not necessary to leave the Peace Tower by the time listed, you must be starting your visit before the latest time listed on the ticket.
* If you are taking the full tour of Parliament, both the Peace Tower and the Memorial Chamber are included, so you would not need to tour them separately, nor obtain separate tickets for each.
The elevator to the top of the Peace Tower accommodates approximately 7 people, and is an 18 second ride each way. Prior to accessing the elevator, you will be required to pass through security screening. A coat check is available at 90 Wellington if you wish to expedite this process. Otherwise, an RCMP officer will gently handle all of your belongings (and laugh at anything odd you might have hiding in your bag…) and you will pass through a metal detector just like at the airport, though with no risk of being confronted by a disgruntled flight attendant at the other side.
The elevator ride includes a narrated history of the tower – if you have a funny guide like ours – and a description of the view. The student accompanying our elevator reminded us not to get too dizzy trying to catch sight of the bells, somewhat visible through the elevator window.
While there is no hurry to move quickly at the top of the tower, it is a small space. The entire visit would generally take no more than an hour.
Learn about the original clock mechanism, and play I Spy a Gargoyle from the windows at the top of the tower.
Be sure to take time to peer across the Ottawa River to view Quebec on one side and Ontario on the other, and take in views of the Ottawa skyline, and the funky roof of the National Gallery of Canada.
If you’ve been paying any attention to Canadian anything this year, you’ll know it is Canada 150 – the 150th anniversary of Confederation. This is a huge country, and has been increasing in popularity as a tourist destination in recent years. So, it seems like the perfect opportunity to put together the Ultimate Canadian Travel Bucket List, for Canadians and international tourists, in honour of Canada 150. Here it is!
Drive the Sea-to-Sky Highway (BC)
Have an ice cream at Peggy’s Cove (NS)
Ride the train through the Rocky Mountains (AB)
See a Roughriders football game (SK)
Kayak with belugas in Hudson Bay (MB)
Cruise Western Brook Pond (NL)
Skate on the Rideau Canal (ON)
Tour Grand Manan Island (NB)
View the Montreal skyline from Mont-Royal (QC)
See the tall ships in Halifax Harbour (NS)
Find the giant potato (PEI)
See crowds of puffins in Elliston (NL)
Enjoy the midnight sun in Canada’s north (YK)
Auyuittuq National Park of Canada (NU)
Cruise with narwhals (NWT)
Enjoy Acadien food and music (NB)
Chill with polar bears in Churchill (MB)
Stanley Park, Vancouver (BC)
Climb a mountain in Banff (AB)
Watch the ocean-like waves of wheat fields (SK)
See the Royal Winnipeg Ballet in their hometown (MB)
View Toronto from the CN Tower (ON)
Eat maple syrup off snow (QC)
Bouctouche Dunes Boardwalk (NB)
Drive the Cabot Trail (NS)
Visit the Anne of Green Gables House (PEI)
Hike in Torngat Mountains National Park, Labrador (NL)
See Niagara Falls from Canada’s side (ON)
Visit Whitehorse and Dawson City on the Klondike Trail of the gold rush (YK)
Sail the Northwest Passage (NU)
Tree-Trek and Toboggan in Whistler (BC)
Hang out in the Muttart Gardens (AB)
Pitch a tent in Grasslands National Park (SK)
Ferry over to Toronto Island (ON)
Ride the funicular in Old Quebec City (QC)
Visit St. Andrews By the Sea (NB)
Float on the MacKenzie River – Canada’s largest river system (NWT)
Learn about the expulsion of the Acadiens at Grand Pre National Historic Site (NS)
Snag your own cod on Change Islands and Fogo Island (NL)
Drive the Alaska Highway (YK)
Catch the northern lights in Canada’s arctic (NU)
Cross the Capilano Suspension Bridge (BC)
Peer over the edge of Cape Breton Island at Meat Cove (NS)
Relax in the Blue Mountains (ON)
Tour Head-Smashed-In-Buffalo Jump Park (AB)
Cruise the South Saskatchewan River (SK)
Take in the Winnipeg Folk Festival or Wine Festival – or both, though sadly not at the same time (MB)
See a show at Massey Hall (ON)
Ski at Mont-Tremblant (QC)
Watch the tide come in at Fundy National Park (NB)
Sorry everyone. This whole full-time student meets blogger life is getting away from me, and so the schedule has gone out the window! But with an influx of American readers this morning – hi guys! – I thought it was time to share some of the gems of Newfoundland- an underpopulated, natural wonder. Plus, I don’t leave the house any more, so I have to dig back in the archives for some adventures to share with you (36 days to end of term!).
This past Thanksgiving weekend (that’s in October here in Canada – a decent amount of time from Christmas) we finally got the chance to visit Bowring Park, right here in St. John’s. I know, you’d think having lived here for almost three years now I would’ve been able to get there, but without a car in this lovely city there are some things that are almost impossible.
Autumn is of course one of the most beautiful times to visit Newfoundland. September whether is almost always somewhat kind of predictably occasionally sunny, the leaves are turning (before they get snowed on) and everything smells like the ocean. Approximately 5 km from downtown St. John’s, Bowring Park is accessible by bus, but of course easier by car! The 200 acre park is connected with the Grand Concourse, a network of 125km of walking trails all across the city. This is not to be confused with Bannerman Park, in the heart of St. John’s, which is also excellent but very much not the same thing (I make this mistake every. single. day).
During your visit, don’t forget to feed the ducks at the pond, and visit the Peter Pan statue, the Caribou Monument and Beaumont Hamel Memorial, see the swans, and peek over all of the bridges.
So you head off to Cape Breton in search of Nova Scotian ocean air and those autumn colours you know are out there. You drive through the national park, stop in cute towns, listen to Celtic music and eat lots of fish. And then, as you’re nearing the mainland again you think, god, I’ve heard so much about the Acadians. I’ve learned Acadian history in school, I’ve visited monuments and spoken French in Nova Scotia and Quebec and now, I’m in Cape Breton, at the edge of the world, and all I want is a true Acadian lunch!
I know, I’m clairvoyant right? So you drive away from whatever adorable B&B you’re staying at, you stop at Pomquet Beach where temperatures rise to regular old beach temps even though it’s the Atlantic, and then you return to your thoughts of lunch. Just like I do. I got your back on this one.
Head up to Chez Deslauriers (on a Friday in July and August) and say Bonjour to the lovely volunteers from the Pomquet Development Society who will take your contribution to their cause, seat you at a clothed table by a window looking out on one of the most gorgeous and calming views you’ll see, and eat beans. Or meat.
You will dine alongside locals, while mothers and daughters serve lunch in both official languages, and be given a serving of strawberry shortcake so huge it’ll be hard to believe. After lunch, walk it off at the interpretive centre, and one one of the many Pomquet Acadian Trails the Society maintains. Bring bug spray – the mosquitoes particularly enjoy strawberry shortcake-scented blood.
You will have then consumed a massive, delicious, and authentic Acadian lunch, including baked beans, ham, fricôt (chicken stew filled with potatoes and dumplings – giant balls of dough shoved in with gravy YUM), pâté (a tri-meat pie) and homemade bread. Obviously, you’ll be so happy and full, you too will look like this:
The land and the buildings at Monk’s Head all have historical significance, but the real gem here are the people: lovely, welcoming, generous, and happy to share their history and heritage with visitors. The only downside of this beautiful place is that we were one of only a few groups of tourists! Go! Visit! Eat!
If you follow One Red Phone Box on Instagram, you’ll have seen a whole whack of photos of a magical place that actually resembles fall scenery, and you will not have believed that they are actually pictures of Newfoundland. St. John’s autumns usually go something like summer-summer-summer-snow, with a glimpse of autumn leafery before the ice and sleet and fog and flurries cover them all up. This year we have had real, honest to goodness fall weather, with days warm enough to be outside. The trees aren’t confused, and the city looks good. Novel.
If you aren’t following me on Instagram (@oneredphonebox), firstly whyever not?! and secondly, here are some of the photos you have been missing, plus extras of the beautiful fall scenery and the Rennie’s River Trail in St. John’s.
St. John’s, Newfoundland: the edge of the world, the eastern-most tip of Canada, and one of the most picturesque places in North America. There are enough views and experiences to have in this gorgeous city to keep you going for days – and many weeks if you want to visit the rest of the province. But don’t leave Newfoundland’s historic capital city without doing these three outdoorsy things!
Hike the Battery trail up Signal Hill, and take the road back down:
The Battery trail leads walkers through a small neighbourhood, and then onto the rocks at the entrance to the harbour.
As you can see, the views are spectacular, and you may catch sight of a ship coming in, guided through the Narrows by a pilot boat. On the way back down from Signal Hill, go via the road to enjoy the ponds and the Geocentre, and maybe find some wild blueberries.
Go to Quidi Vidi Village and the Artists’ Plantation:
Completely walkable, the loop around Quidi Vidi Lake and then to the village proper is a classic St. John’s experience. Get your sports and your art all in one day – take in the Regatta on the lake, and then get a taste of Newfoundland art and speak to the artisans at the Artists’ Plantation in Quidi Vidi.
Walk part of the Rennie’s River Trail:
The City of St. John’s is covered with trail systems, and the Rennie’s River Trail is my favourite.
Accessible from many places throughout the city, I particularly like the section between Bonaventure Avenue and Kings Bridge Road.